Kazakhstan Chronicles - Diary of a 2-Week Ex-Pat

Atyrau - Day One

I visited a camel farm approximately 15 kilometers from Dostyk Village in Atyrau, Kazakhstan where I stayed during my vacation. I will explain Dostyk in another entry. Most people just can't hop on a plane and vacation in Atyrau. First, you have to be invited by the government and have lots of paperwork or you will be turned away at the airport.

There were 600-700 camels roaming the desert. Zaru is an 85-year-old camel herder. She owns 120 of the 600-700 camels. She milks (I believe) all of the camels twice a day and has been doing this since she was 12. Her hands are like bricks. Her skin showed deep canal-like lines. She cries. And, the sun's rays have branded her tears within those deep lines, a permanent reminder of the harsh life and cruel heat. I didn't get to meet her on this day. But, was shown a beautiful mosaic picture that my step-daughter's husband created from photos he had taken. I wanted to meet her and think everyone who visits Atyrau must. In fact, it should be listed on some kind of tour guide.

One interesting photo-op that stood out on the camel farm was an ancient cemetery. We took photos and had a picnic.

The ex-pats who work for TengizChevroil live comfortably in nice homes at Dostyk, which is a secured gated compound. Residents have drivers. During my visit, I had a polite man named Zhanboolat drive me and my family to the camel farm. He spoke some English, but mostly Russian. He tried to teach me Russian, and I tried to teach him English.

Zhanboolat has been a driver since 1999. I knew this because he wrote the number '1999' in the sand with a stick. He wore a smile and a gold tooth. My first Russian word he taught me was 'choo-choo' meaning 'train' as he pointed to a train moving slow in the distance. It was hauling oil from the TengizChevroil field.

Then, a camel spit on me.